Thursday, April 18, 2013

Hello Istanbul!


Waking Up


I didn't sleep well and woke up fairly easy today. The arrangements at the hostile were less than comfortable. The bed mattress was like a futon and the sheets given to me for the bed hardly fit. It was a strange experience sleeping in a room with a bunch of strangers. The navy diver I spoke to the night before was already and had left, the few who checked in from the night before were still sleeping. As I was quietly packing up I saw a man and a woman entering the bedroom. I thought they were a couple checking in, but I'd later learn the man was the owner of the hostile. Roy had checked me into the hostile the night before. The man with the woman was his father, he was showing her to her bed. Apparently without telling me and probably the others, Roy put me in a co-ed room. I didn't mind since I was already up and packed, but the others were not fully dressed. I wasn't very impressed with Roy. Roy acted as if he was the alpha male of the hostile. His father seemed very different - very nice, sincere, older man. I was happy to be leaving. It would have been interesting to get to know the others at the hostile, but the sleeping arrangements were less than ideal. Maybe next time I stay at a hostile I'll start with a private room the first night to feel it out - than move to a bunk if I get a good vibe.

Getting to Ben Gurion Airport


My plan was to take public transportation to Ben Gurion Airport - just for the sake of adventure. I'd have to take a public van to a train station that went directly to the airport. Seemed simple enough...and it was!  I picked up a waffle and OJ from the cafe behind the enormous information sign at the train station and I was off to the airport.

Upon exiting the train, right before entering the airport, I was pulled aside by Israeli security. After about 5 minutes of questions and showing the guard my passport, I was off to the terminal. Before entering the departures area your checked baggage is cleared. What's nice is that your bags are only opened in your presence. Like the last time I felt out of Ben Gurion, I was passed on to the 'enhanced' screening area. Everything in the bag is swiped for residue and scanned. Afterwards, the bag is taken to the counter to be checked. The person checking the bag let me know the plane hadn't yet arrived so she would have hold it. A bit of a nuisance since I still had to have my carry on bag screened and endure the Ben Gurion pat down, both of which took time. After attempting to check the bag I figured I'd join the long queue of people in line to check in. I had yet to check in and wanted to see if an exit row was available. After about 10 minutes of waiting, the baggage lady told me the plane had arrived and escorted me to the front of the line. At check in I was told an exit window was available!

Tel Aviv train station

Train Car


Flight to Istanbul

I had about an hour to kill and waited around the gate area. After boarding the plane I discovered I did have a window seat, but not an exit row. The flight was only 2 1/2 hours, so it wasn't a big deal. The flight wasn't booked and there was an empty seat between the aisle and window, so the flight was comfortable.

Istanbul Airport

As well as drinks, Turkish Air offers a selection of periodicals

Arriving at Istanbul

International Arrival Area (behind doors and information board)


After departing the plane I picked up a $20 visa stamp (it's three times as expensive for Canadians) and head towards passport control. The passport control line was very long, but moved quickly. I noticed a Starbucks, which I've come to equate with a wi-fi enabled non smoking oasis, and joined the line. The man told me they offered WiFi, but it was a scam. In order to use it you had to receive an activation code via SMS.  Doruknet is the service name, and the process was designed by a con artist or fool. When you join the WiFi network it allows you to create an account that links to a Facebook account. Part of the Doruknet process though requires SMS activation. So if you don't have a mobile number you can't use the WiFi. I realized this after I put my order in and asked if there was a way around it. The helpless attendant shrugged his shoulders like it wasn't his problem. I told him to cancel the order and he got a little bent out of shape with me. I didn't care though, I really only wanted to use WiFi. At this point I went to get a SIM card. There are three providers in Turkey: Vodaphone, TurkCell, and Avea. All three have shops in the airport so there was some price comparisons to do. I had read TurkCell had the best prices, so I started there. I found an agent, who claimed to speak English well, and he offered me a SIM card. For reasons I do not understand, he could not add on a data plan. I asked if there was someone who could speak English better and he got very insulted. Next stop was Avea, they wanted about $30 USD for a SIM card and 1 GB of data. Not bad, but I figured I'd check Vodaphone. Vodaphone wanted almost $60 USD for a SIM card and 1 GB of data, back to Avea. The lady at Avea was very helpful. She cut the sim card down for my phone and gave me the necessary top off card (prepaid credit). I'd later find out she didn't give me enough credit to add 1GB. After about 5 minutes of walking I realized she had not charged me anything, so I had to return to pay. She was oblivious to the fact she forgot to charge me and thanked me several times for returning. One of the guys she worked with started giving her a hard time about her mistake when I interjected that it was my fault for being so incredibly handsome. He couldn't tell if I was serious, but she started cracking up.  The second coffee shop used the same stupid WiFi service Starbucks had, but since I had a local number I was able to activate the service.

Public Public Trans to Hotel

Before leaving Turkey I had booked a hotel via Kayak. While at the coffee shop I had read a little about the public transportation in Istanbul. I figured I'd take the subway to the general area of the hotel and  cab it from there if necessary. The public transportation at Istanbul was fairly impressive. The trains were fast and more modern that those in Chicago. I read the map on the train and found a route that would take me very near the hotel. At the transfer point an agent would help with the transfer - but he put me on the right train in the wrong direction. I caught the mistake before the first stop.

Istanbul M1 train line


Hotel Issues

The very hilly area is filled with small boutique hotels, so it took a while to find the hotel. After arriving at the front desk I was told there were no rooms - my reservation was confirmed by mistake. Shortly thereafter the manager came out to confirm the mistake. They called a few other hotels - same situation. Around this time I got a message from the friend (Ryan) I was meeting up with that day - he was at the hotel. He was part of a larger tour group, so he didn't have a lot of control over what he wasd going. I was worried about missing the chance to meet up with him. I've stayed with friends and family throughout the trip, but seeing someone I regularly hang out with in Chicago was a very big deal to me. He didn't have local cell service, he was only online when he had access to WiFi. After about 40 minutes they found me another room in a hotel nearby. I had read a similar complaint on TripAdvisor about the hotel so I was concerned the hotel was far. The manager insisted it was not and, along with the bellman, walked with me to the new hotel down the street. I was given a very small room with two twin beds - not what I ordered. The manager took a very personal interest in getting me a room so I couldn't be ungrateful towards her. After I got settled I called the online web site to give them a piece of my mind. After I refused the offer of a 10 percent coupon off my next booking and digging into the agent, they offered a 4-5 star hotel for the next two nights. Around this time the hotel manager from the other hotel returned to see if I was comfortable. She heard my call to the travel agent and was horrified. I felt awful, she had done everything she could to help me and now she felt bad. I tried to tell her I was simply insulted by what they had offered in exchange for the inconvenience but that did little. She would be working the next two nights and insisted I stay at her house, which had a much larger bed. Absolutely crazy offer, but she was completely sincere. She asked that I return to the hotel afterwards so we could talk about what they could do - I told her it wasn't necessary. From what I understood, the mistake wasn't caused by the hotel. She was persistent and I promised to stop by when I head back in for the night. Around this time I got a message from Ryan telling me the name of the restaurant they were at and to join up. He was crafty enough to ask the server for the WEP key so he could keep in touch.


New Hotel

Small Room


Meeting Ryan's Group

I was hesitant to join the tour group, as I didn't want to freeload. I went to the restaurant and took a seat at the bar. I got a few more messages from Ryan insisting I come up and join them at the table. I told him I was at the bar and would join up afterwards. He came down and got me, since everyone was broken up into a bunch of tables I felt more comfortable joining them. They had finished dinner and were about to start desert. I had a beer I payed for at the bar. Since I didn't want to deal with payment complications, I rejected the individual servings of desert everyone was served. A man at the next table came by and insisted I have his. I'd later find out he was a local tour guide responsible for the tour. Incredibly hospitable. We had a pretty diverse group of people at the table. Aside from Ryan and myself, we had an accountant, a lawyer, and two high school students. The two high school students were from Vermont and siblings - I think the only ones not from Chicago. Everyone at the table was a blast to be around. The tour group just arrived hours earlier to Turkey from Chicago - so many were jet lagged. Almost all went back to the hotel to sleep. Ryan and I were heading out and invited a few others - the high school guy, Calvin, wanted to join us.


Calvin, me, and Ryan with others


Trip to Asia

Istanbul is spread between two continents, Asia and Europe. We were on the European side, but the Asian side was a very short train ride away. Much like me, Ryan wanted to check out the public transportation, so we head towards the train after getting ideas from the hotel's front desk. Our destination was an area called Taksim Square. Istanbul is full of very, very steep hills. After departing the train we'd have to hike some of the very, very steep hills to get to Taksim Square. The area was insane. The streets are enormously long and wide with restaurants, retail shops, and bars lining them all along the way. The area is one huge party at night. Some of the retail shops were open late, some were closed. After a short amount of time Calvin started itching to get back. Ryan was insistent he and I at least get a beer and we settled up on a bar. There was live music at the bar and we took in some Turkish dancing. The men dance with women here - a fresh of breath air. There was a lot I wanted to catch up on with Ryan, but the mixed company really never allowed for it. It was still great to see him and meet Calvin.

Ryan and me en route to Asia from Europe

One of the never-ending roads within Taksim

Ryan and I toasting with a local brew

Back to the Vezir Hotel
 
Although I was tired, I swung by the hotel I originally booked at to say hi to the manager (Alton) who helped me with the reservation issue. She had mentioned she was working all night so I figured she'd welcome the company. When I swung by she suggested we have tea. In back of the small hotel is a small garden followed by a separate structure that serves as a restaurant. The restaurant was cold, but we had tea and I tried to explain to her some cultural differences between the US and Turkey. More specifically, why I was so aggressive with the travel agency that screwed up my reservation. Whenever dealing with companies I try to be nice, but I'll get nasty if I have to. The travel agencies offer of 10 percent off my next booking was a joke. I felt no sincerity in their apology. Further, if no economic impact was felt by the mistake they'd likely continue to treat future customers the exact same way they treated me. The opposite was true for Alton, she personally was invested in ensuring the situation was fixed. If she had made the mistake I would have been much more empathetic. We chatted for about 45 minutes and as a way of showing gratitude I mentioned I'd like to stay at the hotel for a night. She mentioned there was availability on Sunday night.

Tomorrow

Ryan mentioned the tour group was gathering at 8:15 in the hotel lobby. I thought he mentioned it was free time they were given to walk around the area. It was around 1-2am, but I told him I'd meet up. I don't think he took my response seriously.

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