Waking Up
I got up around 10, not bad considering that I got in very late and was out the night before. I hadn't had much time to read up on Dublin before arriving, but I was anxious to explore the city. I've always been fascinated with Ireland. Irish Pubs, Saint Patrick's Day, U2, Dublin, Guinness are all things I live for and all things I'd have to explore in the short time I was in Ireland. I'd be meeting up with the Ukrainian I met in Abu Dhabi on Friday, so I'd only have a few days to explore. Tobi, a friend I stayed with in Germany, insisted I visit the countryside of Ireland. My original plan was to spend the entire time in Dublin. Not considering the night I got in, I only had 3 nights in Ireland and had planned to take it easy. As I thought more and more about what Tobi told me, I reconsidered my plans and booked the hotel in Dublin for only 2 nights.
St. James Gate
The first place I wanted to visit was St. James Gate, home of Guinness beer! I've got to give it to the Irish, they even attach the Saint label to a major brewery. This particular tour was something I had wanted to do for a very long time, so I was very excited.
I remember the first time I had Guinness. I had turned 21 shortly before and was at the greatest pizza place in the world with my mom, cousin, and siblings. At the time I'm not sure I appreciated the first pint I had, but over time it would become my favorite beer.
The tour is self guided and walks visitors throughout the various floors of the old plant. The tour is very well done and explains the various ingredients of beer (Barley, Malt, Yeast and Hops), the origination of the brand, advertising, shipping, global reach, etc. It's pretty incredible how much information is covered throughout the tour. There's even a bit of drama included in many bits. For example, founder Arthur Guinness threatened the city with a pick axe after they tried to cut off his water supply for brewing. It was also interesting to learn that the Guinness Draught we American's and Europeans enjoy is not the original. The closest variant around during the time of Arthur Guinness would be Guinness Foreign Extra Stout, however that's not available in America. Since it was designed for export, Foreign Extra Stout has a higher alcohol content. Extra hops and alcohol were added and thought to act as a natural preservative for the long journey to Asia and other island countries. This particular brew accounts for almost half of all Guinness sales worldwide. I found it odd it was something I could not get in the USA, let alone Ireland. Since I hadn't eaten I stopped by the bakery and enjoyed Guinness flavored tiramisu and brownies midway through the tour. There was a full fledged restaurant later in the tour, but since I had a large snack I continued with the tour. The marketing section showcased how Guinness marketing has changed over the years. A collection of TVs showed various advertisements created over the years, including a cartoon. The TVs displaying the advertisements were of the respective era. The logistics section was very informative. The exhibit explained how Guinness had been transported via boat prior to the kickoff of aviation. Guinness actually owned enormous tankers that would transport the beer to the far ends of the world. Part of the admission ticket is a drink coupon which is redeemed at the end of the tour. Participants can wait in line to learn how to pour the perfect pint of Guinness, or go straight to the Gravity Bar, which offers panoramic views of Dublin.
Outside Saint James Gate
The Tour
Saint Patricks Cathedral
I spent more time at Saint James Gate than I expected, but since it was of major interest to me I was okay with loosing time. I checked Trip Advisor for suggestions and decided to visit Saint Patrick's Cathedral. I also noticed a post office nearby, so I stopped by to get stamps. I'm picking up an extremely friendly vibe in the country. The woman who worked at the post office was incredibly friendly. We chatted for a bit. The accent is hard not to love. She happily gave me change in coin so I could stuff the meter. Parking is about 3 euro an hour, so my coins go quickly.
The first thing I noticed around the cathedral was an enormous park that spanned almost an entire block. Lots of people enjoyed the space. Upon arrival I contemplated using a student ID to save a few euro on admission, but in the end decided against it since it was a church. In the end, the man working the register charged the discounted rate anyhow since only 45 minutes remained before a service started and tourists got the boot.
Grafton Street
Next on the list of things to do...stroll around Grafton Street. According to Wikipedia, Grafton Street is the 5th most expensive main shopping district in the world at an average lease cost of over $5,000 a square meter/year.
Getting stamps and a SIM card are two purchases that have become habit. When I first started the journey I made getting both a purposeful task. Now I try to do both passively. It's surprising to me that almost no retailers sell stamps. Since I got stamps though, that wasn't a concern. The concern now was to find a prepaid SIM card. Since Grafton Street is effectively a giant shopping mall I didn't expect to have a problem finding one.
Off Grafton is a large indoor shopping mall. Inside I found an independent phone store run by an incredibly nice Asian couple. They mostly sell accessories, but they also have prepaid cards. For around 10 euro I got setup and was ready to go. My screen protector had seen better days and had some sand under it from the Egypt leg of the trip so I replaced that for 5 euro. The guy did a remarkable job putting it on for free. No air bubbles!
Dinner
After hopping around Grafton Street I decided to make a stop at a bar called The Duke for some food. I specifically choose this bar because it was a favorite of U2's frontman Bono. I'd be disappointed to discover they do not serve dinner, only lunch. So, I opted for a Guinness, wrote postcards, and chatted with the bartender. After finishing up the postcards I asked the bartender for advice on where to get good fish and chips. He pointed me over to Leo Burdocks. Since the location was a little over a kilometer away I planned to walk. Since it started to rain I hopped in a cab and gave the driver the address. We struggled to find the exact address, but eventually I saw the restaurant. Once the driver understood I wanted to go to Leo Burdocks, he asked why I didn't just ask him to take me to the fish place. I asked if he heard of it before and he said yes, it's the best fish and chips place in all of Dublin. There was a little line and the place was takeout only. I got my order quickly and found a cab to take me back to the hotel. The fish and chips were pretty good, but my favorite fish and chips place remains a little place in Wrigleyville called Bloaks and Birds.
Bar Hopping
I wanted to get a good feel for what an Irish pub was like. Since this was to be my last night in Dublin, I spent some visiting some of the classic well known pubs. The most remarkable of all was The Brazen Head pub. This pub dates back over 800 years, it was opened in 1198. By the time I got there the live music had ended and the crowd was dieing down. There's a large outdoor area to the side of the pub, but it was mostly empty since it was chilly outside. I had a single drink before leaving for home.
The Brazen Head
Tomorrow
Tonight would be my last night in Dublin. The plan was to spend part of tomorrow in Dublin visiting various U2 sites of significance and than drive off to Limerick. From Limerick I would head an our West to visit one of the natural wonders of the world, Cliffs of Moher (or Cliffs of Insanity if you've seen the Princess Bride).
I got up around 10, not bad considering that I got in very late and was out the night before. I hadn't had much time to read up on Dublin before arriving, but I was anxious to explore the city. I've always been fascinated with Ireland. Irish Pubs, Saint Patrick's Day, U2, Dublin, Guinness are all things I live for and all things I'd have to explore in the short time I was in Ireland. I'd be meeting up with the Ukrainian I met in Abu Dhabi on Friday, so I'd only have a few days to explore. Tobi, a friend I stayed with in Germany, insisted I visit the countryside of Ireland. My original plan was to spend the entire time in Dublin. Not considering the night I got in, I only had 3 nights in Ireland and had planned to take it easy. As I thought more and more about what Tobi told me, I reconsidered my plans and booked the hotel in Dublin for only 2 nights.
St. James Gate
The first place I wanted to visit was St. James Gate, home of Guinness beer! I've got to give it to the Irish, they even attach the Saint label to a major brewery. This particular tour was something I had wanted to do for a very long time, so I was very excited.
I remember the first time I had Guinness. I had turned 21 shortly before and was at the greatest pizza place in the world with my mom, cousin, and siblings. At the time I'm not sure I appreciated the first pint I had, but over time it would become my favorite beer.
The tour is self guided and walks visitors throughout the various floors of the old plant. The tour is very well done and explains the various ingredients of beer (Barley, Malt, Yeast and Hops), the origination of the brand, advertising, shipping, global reach, etc. It's pretty incredible how much information is covered throughout the tour. There's even a bit of drama included in many bits. For example, founder Arthur Guinness threatened the city with a pick axe after they tried to cut off his water supply for brewing. It was also interesting to learn that the Guinness Draught we American's and Europeans enjoy is not the original. The closest variant around during the time of Arthur Guinness would be Guinness Foreign Extra Stout, however that's not available in America. Since it was designed for export, Foreign Extra Stout has a higher alcohol content. Extra hops and alcohol were added and thought to act as a natural preservative for the long journey to Asia and other island countries. This particular brew accounts for almost half of all Guinness sales worldwide. I found it odd it was something I could not get in the USA, let alone Ireland. Since I hadn't eaten I stopped by the bakery and enjoyed Guinness flavored tiramisu and brownies midway through the tour. There was a full fledged restaurant later in the tour, but since I had a large snack I continued with the tour. The marketing section showcased how Guinness marketing has changed over the years. A collection of TVs showed various advertisements created over the years, including a cartoon. The TVs displaying the advertisements were of the respective era. The logistics section was very informative. The exhibit explained how Guinness had been transported via boat prior to the kickoff of aviation. Guinness actually owned enormous tankers that would transport the beer to the far ends of the world. Part of the admission ticket is a drink coupon which is redeemed at the end of the tour. Participants can wait in line to learn how to pour the perfect pint of Guinness, or go straight to the Gravity Bar, which offers panoramic views of Dublin.
Outside Saint James Gate
The Tour
Atop the hops
(L) Classic Guinness Advertisement (R) me in front
Learning to pour the perfect pint of Guinness
Above the brewery atop Gravity Bar
A barge used to transport Guinness
Saint Patricks Cathedral
I spent more time at Saint James Gate than I expected, but since it was of major interest to me I was okay with loosing time. I checked Trip Advisor for suggestions and decided to visit Saint Patrick's Cathedral. I also noticed a post office nearby, so I stopped by to get stamps. I'm picking up an extremely friendly vibe in the country. The woman who worked at the post office was incredibly friendly. We chatted for a bit. The accent is hard not to love. She happily gave me change in coin so I could stuff the meter. Parking is about 3 euro an hour, so my coins go quickly.
The first thing I noticed around the cathedral was an enormous park that spanned almost an entire block. Lots of people enjoyed the space. Upon arrival I contemplated using a student ID to save a few euro on admission, but in the end decided against it since it was a church. In the end, the man working the register charged the discounted rate anyhow since only 45 minutes remained before a service started and tourists got the boot.
Grafton Street
Next on the list of things to do...stroll around Grafton Street. According to Wikipedia, Grafton Street is the 5th most expensive main shopping district in the world at an average lease cost of over $5,000 a square meter/year.
Getting stamps and a SIM card are two purchases that have become habit. When I first started the journey I made getting both a purposeful task. Now I try to do both passively. It's surprising to me that almost no retailers sell stamps. Since I got stamps though, that wasn't a concern. The concern now was to find a prepaid SIM card. Since Grafton Street is effectively a giant shopping mall I didn't expect to have a problem finding one.
Off Grafton is a large indoor shopping mall. Inside I found an independent phone store run by an incredibly nice Asian couple. They mostly sell accessories, but they also have prepaid cards. For around 10 euro I got setup and was ready to go. My screen protector had seen better days and had some sand under it from the Egypt leg of the trip so I replaced that for 5 euro. The guy did a remarkable job putting it on for free. No air bubbles!
Shops, shops, shops
Dinner
After hopping around Grafton Street I decided to make a stop at a bar called The Duke for some food. I specifically choose this bar because it was a favorite of U2's frontman Bono. I'd be disappointed to discover they do not serve dinner, only lunch. So, I opted for a Guinness, wrote postcards, and chatted with the bartender. After finishing up the postcards I asked the bartender for advice on where to get good fish and chips. He pointed me over to Leo Burdocks. Since the location was a little over a kilometer away I planned to walk. Since it started to rain I hopped in a cab and gave the driver the address. We struggled to find the exact address, but eventually I saw the restaurant. Once the driver understood I wanted to go to Leo Burdocks, he asked why I didn't just ask him to take me to the fish place. I asked if he heard of it before and he said yes, it's the best fish and chips place in all of Dublin. There was a little line and the place was takeout only. I got my order quickly and found a cab to take me back to the hotel. The fish and chips were pretty good, but my favorite fish and chips place remains a little place in Wrigleyville called Bloaks and Birds.
Bar Hopping
I wanted to get a good feel for what an Irish pub was like. Since this was to be my last night in Dublin, I spent some visiting some of the classic well known pubs. The most remarkable of all was The Brazen Head pub. This pub dates back over 800 years, it was opened in 1198. By the time I got there the live music had ended and the crowd was dieing down. There's a large outdoor area to the side of the pub, but it was mostly empty since it was chilly outside. I had a single drink before leaving for home.
The Brazen Head
The Brazen Head Pub
Inside Brazen Head
Bono & Edge's Hotel
Tomorrow
Tonight would be my last night in Dublin. The plan was to spend part of tomorrow in Dublin visiting various U2 sites of significance and than drive off to Limerick. From Limerick I would head an our West to visit one of the natural wonders of the world, Cliffs of Moher (or Cliffs of Insanity if you've seen the Princess Bride).
No comments:
Post a Comment