Waking Up
I didn't plan to spend much time in Bangkok, only two nights. So it was important I got up early and took in some sights. The breakfast at the hotel was pretty good. Complimentary coffee, toast, fruit, and cereal would start the morning off. Free is good.
River Cruise
The first stop was the Grand Palace, the official palace of the kings of Siam. It was the #1 destination recommend by just about everyone. I'd need to take the train to a river ferry to get there. There was a good write up on TripAdvisor that was quite helpful. The only part I missed was getting off the boat at the right stop. The ferry was full and I was stuck on the side of the boat opposite of land, so it wasn't easy to see the stop name. Announcements didn't help because they weren't in English, rather thai. I decided to enjoy the cruise and take in the waterfront for a few stops and eventually got off and boarded the ferry from the opposite dock. This time around I was able to see the stop numbers and get off at the correct stop.
Grand Palace
Before entering the palace one is approached by many. Apparently it's not uncommon to be told that the palace is closed (it's almost never closed) in an effort to sway tourists elsewhere. While no one made an effort to try that con on me, one lady did suggest I come back the following day because the temple was very busy. It's unclear to me what her motive was exactly.
Proper dress is required to visit the Grand Palace. They do lend clothing, taking a small deposit to ensure they get it back. Since it was hot I was in shorts so I got in the respective line, got clothes, and went off to get a ticket. From the outside the Grand Palace looked incredible. Although a very different style, it's flamboyant nature reminded me of Park Güell in Barcelona. The palace is broken into two sections; one part temple and (I suspect) the other part administrative buildings. The palace is really impressive and a must see.
Golden Buddha
The next stop was to see the giant Golden Buddha, not far I'm told from the palace. I found a tuk-tuk driver and after some haggling we were on our way. He was pushing me to go elsewhere insisting traffic was too bad, but in the end he took me where I wanted. This was my first time in a tuk-tuk and it was wild. Going through the streets of Bangkok in a tiny motorized rigshaw type vehicle should qualify as some kind of extreme sport. After arriving at my destination the driver asked if I wanted him to wait. I told him I might be there for a while and not to bother. I guess his offer suggests I paid way too much and didn't haggle enough.
A few notes about the statue. It's believed to be built sometime between the 13th and 14th century and it's made of solid gold. SOLID GOLD. It's actually the largest statue made entirely of gold. Considering what gold is going for, the thing must be worth an absolute fortune. In historic times the statue was actually covered in plaster in an effort to keep it from getting stolen.
If your curious about value...here's a clip from the Wikipedia page on the statue. Note gold is a bit less than indicated. I think this statue trumps anything I've seen in the Emirates.
At US$1,400 per troy ounce, the gold in the statue (18 karat) is estimated to be worth 250 million dollars.[9] The body of the statue is 40% pure, the volume from the chin to the forehead is 80% pure, and the hair and the topknot, weighing 45 kg, are 99% pure gold.
Coffee Shop
I noticed a coffee shop in a plaza outside the Golden Buddha. I stopped by to get an espresso and chatted with the owner, who was probably a bit younger than me. I ended up hanging around there for a couple of hours chatting with him. I helped him setup his business on Tripadvisor, oddly enough he was already on Foursquare and just didn't know it. People had already posted photos on Foursquare. I chatted with the owner about what to do next. I had a specific idea in mind, but he recommended against it since there was government action against protestors in that specific area. He suggested I visit Chinatown.
Chinatown
I hopped another tuk-tuk and head towards Chinatown, spending about an hour wandering around from shop to shop. I picked up some street food and head back to the ferry. Lucky for me one of the ferry stops was a short walk from Chinatown.
Getting Home
The ferry debacle would repeat itself yet again and I'd end up on the boat going the opposite direction I needed. I originally paid the fare on board (about 50 cents), but when the lady realized I boarded the wrong ferry she refunded my money without me even asking for it back. I hopped off and ran to the opposite dock, rushing because a boat was pulling in. This particular dock had an attendant, and he stopped me before I could board asking for the fare. He spoke broken English so I tried to communicate where I wanted to go, which was the boat that went to the to 'metro' or 'skytrain'. He insisted I board at the opposite dock, the one I just came from. He wasn't trying to haggle a fair, rather the opposite. He didn't want my money. I figured he was wrong, but he kept telling me to go to the opposite dock. I tried to ignore him thinking he there was a miscommunication, but he persisted...at one point he asked me if I spoke English. In the end he was right, apparently ferries going in both direction leave the same dock.
Bangkok Nightlife
I went back to the hotel, cleaned up, and planned to spend a couple of hours taking in Bangkok's nightlife. Across the street was a Sheraton 4 points with a western looking bar called BeerVault. It was well reviewed and had life entertainment. Inside was a mix of Thai and westerners. I stayed for a big, enjoyed the one man Irish singing act, and headed for the nearby red light district called Soi Cowboy. Soi Cowboy is located on an small road right off the street were the demonstrators were. There were more demonstrators than I had seen before. The atmosphere appeared calm and jubilant. Prior, the stage was occupied by speakers. This time there was a band playing music. The atmosphere appeared calm. Regardless of how calm things appear a mob of people that size can change very quickly, so I avoided entering the masses and stuck to the perimeter of the demonstrators.
The situation was very strange. Here were tens of thousands of people demonstrating for the wellbeing of their country, and immediatly of a side street were a bunch of westerners and ex-patriots looking for a good time. Oh, not all the bars off Soi Cowboy were, uh, gentleman's clubs. A few were just simple bars - and those bars appeared to be the most lively. I walked up and down the street a couple of times and head back to the hotel. It was late and I was exhausted.
I didn't plan to spend much time in Bangkok, only two nights. So it was important I got up early and took in some sights. The breakfast at the hotel was pretty good. Complimentary coffee, toast, fruit, and cereal would start the morning off. Free is good.
River Cruise
The first stop was the Grand Palace, the official palace of the kings of Siam. It was the #1 destination recommend by just about everyone. I'd need to take the train to a river ferry to get there. There was a good write up on TripAdvisor that was quite helpful. The only part I missed was getting off the boat at the right stop. The ferry was full and I was stuck on the side of the boat opposite of land, so it wasn't easy to see the stop name. Announcements didn't help because they weren't in English, rather thai. I decided to enjoy the cruise and take in the waterfront for a few stops and eventually got off and boarded the ferry from the opposite dock. This time around I was able to see the stop numbers and get off at the correct stop.
Protestors outside government building
Express ferry boat (not one I took)
Before entering the palace one is approached by many. Apparently it's not uncommon to be told that the palace is closed (it's almost never closed) in an effort to sway tourists elsewhere. While no one made an effort to try that con on me, one lady did suggest I come back the following day because the temple was very busy. It's unclear to me what her motive was exactly.
Proper dress is required to visit the Grand Palace. They do lend clothing, taking a small deposit to ensure they get it back. Since it was hot I was in shorts so I got in the respective line, got clothes, and went off to get a ticket. From the outside the Grand Palace looked incredible. Although a very different style, it's flamboyant nature reminded me of Park Güell in Barcelona. The palace is broken into two sections; one part temple and (I suspect) the other part administrative buildings. The palace is really impressive and a must see.
I resisted the urge to do a funny picture with the statue
Pretty wicked
Golden Buddha
The next stop was to see the giant Golden Buddha, not far I'm told from the palace. I found a tuk-tuk driver and after some haggling we were on our way. He was pushing me to go elsewhere insisting traffic was too bad, but in the end he took me where I wanted. This was my first time in a tuk-tuk and it was wild. Going through the streets of Bangkok in a tiny motorized rigshaw type vehicle should qualify as some kind of extreme sport. After arriving at my destination the driver asked if I wanted him to wait. I told him I might be there for a while and not to bother. I guess his offer suggests I paid way too much and didn't haggle enough.
A few notes about the statue. It's believed to be built sometime between the 13th and 14th century and it's made of solid gold. SOLID GOLD. It's actually the largest statue made entirely of gold. Considering what gold is going for, the thing must be worth an absolute fortune. In historic times the statue was actually covered in plaster in an effort to keep it from getting stolen.
If your curious about value...here's a clip from the Wikipedia page on the statue. Note gold is a bit less than indicated. I think this statue trumps anything I've seen in the Emirates.
At US$1,400 per troy ounce, the gold in the statue (18 karat) is estimated to be worth 250 million dollars.[9] The body of the statue is 40% pure, the volume from the chin to the forehead is 80% pure, and the hair and the topknot, weighing 45 kg, are 99% pure gold.
Selfy of me in a tuk-tuk
Temple at sunset
Temple prior to sunset
Temple at sunset
Golden Buddha - yes, real solid gold Buddha
Coffee Shop
I noticed a coffee shop in a plaza outside the Golden Buddha. I stopped by to get an espresso and chatted with the owner, who was probably a bit younger than me. I ended up hanging around there for a couple of hours chatting with him. I helped him setup his business on Tripadvisor, oddly enough he was already on Foursquare and just didn't know it. People had already posted photos on Foursquare. I chatted with the owner about what to do next. I had a specific idea in mind, but he recommended against it since there was government action against protestors in that specific area. He suggested I visit Chinatown.
Me and shop owner
Chinatown
I hopped another tuk-tuk and head towards Chinatown, spending about an hour wandering around from shop to shop. I picked up some street food and head back to the ferry. Lucky for me one of the ferry stops was a short walk from Chinatown.
Chinatown
Getting Home
The ferry debacle would repeat itself yet again and I'd end up on the boat going the opposite direction I needed. I originally paid the fare on board (about 50 cents), but when the lady realized I boarded the wrong ferry she refunded my money without me even asking for it back. I hopped off and ran to the opposite dock, rushing because a boat was pulling in. This particular dock had an attendant, and he stopped me before I could board asking for the fare. He spoke broken English so I tried to communicate where I wanted to go, which was the boat that went to the to 'metro' or 'skytrain'. He insisted I board at the opposite dock, the one I just came from. He wasn't trying to haggle a fair, rather the opposite. He didn't want my money. I figured he was wrong, but he kept telling me to go to the opposite dock. I tried to ignore him thinking he there was a miscommunication, but he persisted...at one point he asked me if I spoke English. In the end he was right, apparently ferries going in both direction leave the same dock.
Bangkok Nightlife
I went back to the hotel, cleaned up, and planned to spend a couple of hours taking in Bangkok's nightlife. Across the street was a Sheraton 4 points with a western looking bar called BeerVault. It was well reviewed and had life entertainment. Inside was a mix of Thai and westerners. I stayed for a big, enjoyed the one man Irish singing act, and headed for the nearby red light district called Soi Cowboy. Soi Cowboy is located on an small road right off the street were the demonstrators were. There were more demonstrators than I had seen before. The atmosphere appeared calm and jubilant. Prior, the stage was occupied by speakers. This time there was a band playing music. The atmosphere appeared calm. Regardless of how calm things appear a mob of people that size can change very quickly, so I avoided entering the masses and stuck to the perimeter of the demonstrators.
The situation was very strange. Here were tens of thousands of people demonstrating for the wellbeing of their country, and immediatly of a side street were a bunch of westerners and ex-patriots looking for a good time. Oh, not all the bars off Soi Cowboy were, uh, gentleman's clubs. A few were just simple bars - and those bars appeared to be the most lively. I walked up and down the street a couple of times and head back to the hotel. It was late and I was exhausted.
Live entertainment at BeerVault
More demonstrators than I've ever seen
Streets and signs of Soi Cowboy
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