Having not slept well, I was running a little late when the
call from reception came in that Osama was downstairs. Osama was a bit early,
but he was patient with me as I brought down my luggage. I was to check out of
Giza today and would spend the night in a sleeper car en route to Ashwan. Ashwan is
about a 14 hour train ride away from Cairo. Osama was a true gentleman,
insisting I have breakfast before we start. We went to the hotel buffet which
was not very appetizing. I got some cereal, milk, a croissant, and juice. After
about 5 minutes I was ready to roll. The driver would remain with us the entire
day – so my bags would be kept in the trunk of the car.
Osama and me
Streets of Giza and Cairo
Giza Pyramids
Our first stop would be the Giza Pyramids. The day would
begin with a Camel Ride and than, if I wanted, I could pay the entry fee to
enter two of the pyramids. Knowing I might not ever return and not knowing what
I was in for, I opted to enter both.
Camel Ride
Much like the Mayan ruins in Mexico, the pyramids in Egypt
are surrounded by aggressive merchants. Osama had a camel already worked out
and the man who took me around the area was extremely courteous. Around the
time we got to the Pyramids we encountered a wind and sandstorm. It was nothing
sort of ridiculous. Sand was everywhere. I was lucky I remembered my
sunglasses, because they kept the sand out of my eyes. The day before I left I impulse purchased this case to protect my SLR camera - am I ever glad I did. The camel handler was remarkably friendly and spoke perfect
English. He asked to take some pictures using my camera – and he ended up being
very good with it. Not knowing how the tipping system worked, I offered him a
10 Euro bill when we were away from Osama. He politely asked me to give it to
him around Osama. He didn’t want any trouble, he tells me. I asked if Osama got
a cut and he said no, he just wanted Osama to know I tipped him. Fair enough.
The camel’s name was Pepsi and was owned by his father. We chat for a while and
he has me do every tourist pose you can imagine. The camel handler was absolutely awesome.
Pepsi, me, and the camel handler
Grabbing the top of the pyramid
Entering the Pyramids
Looking up into the Pyramid from inside
We would start with the biggest of the pyramids. Guides are
not allowed in the Pyramids so tourists have to go it alone. If you are the least bit claustrophobic the
pyramids are not for you. Climbing on my knees I could hardly make it up
ramp/makeshift stairway. Surrounding you
is limestone, so if you hit your head it’s bound to leave a mark. Traffic goes in and out through the same
entrance – a design chosen thousands of years ago by the designer. One Pyramid
would have two entrances, but that was off limits. After about 10 minutes of climbing
I made my way to the chamber where the pharaoh was found mummified. I was neat.
I’d see a group of tourists posing for pictures taken by an Egyptian. One of
the kids looked high school aged and was wearing an Abercrombie shirt so I
imagined he was from the states.
Pictures were off limits in the tombs, but staff is only on the outside
of the Pyramid so no one really knows what’s going on inside. I was about to ask the kid if he could take
my photo and the Egyptian got aggressive saying he would do it. I knew I was bated at this point. The man
took so poor pictures of me and using my iPhone and I gave him 5 euros – the
smallest amount of money I had. D’oh. I realize now entering both pyramids was overkill. But I didn't want to have regrets.
Measuring up the pyramids
Sphinx
Next we would head to the Sphinx. The sphinx is actually a
man attached to a Lion’s body, Osama would tell me. I gotta give Osama credit.
He’s 30, has done this tour hundreds of times since he was in his teens, and
still has enthusiasm in everything he does. I could hear the excitement and
energy in his voice as he explained the story behind all the ruins. Much like
the Camel handler, Osama suggests I pose with his Pyramids and relics in all
sorts of tourist like ways.
Dressing up the Sphinx
Papyrus & Perfume
Shop
Part of the tour involved stopping by a Papyrus and Perfume
shop.
The perfume shop was first. They sit you down and bring out
a bunch of scents for you to sample. You’re told the French take the essential
oils from Egypt, mix a small amount with alcohol and sell them as designer
fragrances. Before bringing out the scents, they insist you have a drink. I’m
told this is traditional Egyptian hospitality. After a tasty bottle of Pepsi, I
start the scent smelling. All were pretty good and would make nice gifts for
family back home. I inquire about shipping and am floored. The shop wanted $70
USD to ship a box back home. I didn’t
want to waste the salespersons time, so I let him know I couldn’t purchase
anything. “Why don’t you carry it on back home”. Well, for one the bottles are
in excess of 100ml, so carry on is not an option. But most importantly, I’m not
going back home after Egypt. Surprisingly, the staff is amazingly cool. No big
deal I’m told.
We arrived at the Papyrus shop next. Osama warned me that
most Papyrus sold is actually fake and made in China. He tells me real papyrus
will hold color and writing forever. The demonstration at the shop is pretty
neat. A man cuts up a Papyrus leaf and flattens it creating one fo the strands
of a Papyrus paper. We chat for a bit and I walk around to see
what they are selling. I take interest in a Papyrus notebook. I’ve got a
brother who loves to write and a nephew who loves to draw. The cost though was $60 USD. Factoring in
shipping costs, it would be well over $100 a notebook. Sorry guys , no Papyrus
for you.
Egyptian Museum of Antiquities
Me in front of Museum
Next stop was the Egyptian museum in Cairo, home of
thousands of artifacts. Osama tells me Photos are not allowed inside and that
I’d have to check my camera. I was a bit nervous but he insists it’s okay. I
get a check slip and in we go. Guides are allowed throughout most of the
museum, but some exhibits they are not allowed to enter. Osama tells me that’s
basically for crowd control. Large groups would try to monopolize displays
resulting in fights. Most of the time though Osama was right by my side – which
was great because he knew everything about the exhibits. The museum has so much on display. Inside you can see the contents of the Pyramids. I don't think I've ever seen so much gold in my life. Even outside the museum is incredible. There are tons of artifacts just scattered outside the museum. Parts of tombs, ca
OKhan El Khalili Bazaars
Bustling streets of El Khalili Bazaars
Meat market at the Bazaar
Painter outside the Bazaars
I think this is Sharm (beef)
Outside the museum, feeding the man-lion. Osama really liked to have fun with the camera!
After a couple of hours in the Museum Osama suggested he had
to the Felucca sailing ride up the Nile I opted for. At this point I was exhausted and wanted food
– Osama suggests we can move the Felluca ride to the end of the trip. We grab
some food at a restaurant. I have beef not different than what I would get as a
kid in a Gyro. I offer to buy for Osama and he insists no. I insist, because I
don’t want to eat alone. He fights a bit, but in the end I win. For about $8
USD we both get the meet, a drink, and French fries. The fries were my idea and
were tasty. We take 2 seats of an already occupied table and chat a bit. The
market had an upstairs, but people sat wherever they choose. Osama was born in
Saudia Arabia, Riyadh specifically, although his mother and father are
originally Egyptian. He’s close to my age at 30 and is married with a 4 year
old daughter. He tells me he is glad his dad brought everyone back to Egypt. I
tell him I expected the restaurant to be divided – families in one area, single
men in another. He laughs, he tells me nothing like that exists in Egypt. Egypt
is the most moderate of the Arab nations in the region he says. We chat more and he tells me people do
whatever they want in Egypt. We continue chatting as we walk through he
markets. We talk about what the Egyptian
schools, his wants for his daughter and family, his goals, etc. After a couple of hours of chatting and
walking around he return to the car to head to the train station. I was
completely exhausted, but Osama was not the least bit tired. When people come
to Chicago and ask me what to do I like to setup an itinerary of my favorite
things for them to do. This is essentially what Osama had done for me. He
appeared to enjoy every single minute of each phase. I mention how exhausted I
was and he tells me he wanted me to see it all – he’d have it no other way. I
now am aware of how much I can exhaust others J
All Aboard!
As we wait for the train we continue to talk. At this point
the SIM card in my phone was still not working. Osama sends off the driver to
the retail store to activate the card – apparently non Egyptians can not do so.
We continue to chat and activate the phone before boarding the train. I’m not
able to select a service plan, but it’s pre-paid and the most they do is
throttle your data speeds…so I’m happy.
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Hallway in the sleeper car
The seat drops down to create a bed, the panel above the seat also drops down to create an addition bunk style bed. The sleeper was rather comfortable if not for the constant smoking of nearby passengers.
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Sleeper Car
I was excited about the overnight train. Although I
desperately wanted to shower, I wanted to rest even more. Since I paid a single
supplement for the tour everything was private – so I had my own sleeper car.
The sleeper car was pretty nice. What wasn’t nice was the constant smoking by
the surrounding cars. My throat started to really bother me in Cairo and the
night surrounded by constant smoking was not helping. Each train car has about
9 sleeper cars with a door that closes and locks. A servant is assigned to each
car and our car would be served by a man named Tamer. Tamer is the
personification of class. He brought me dinner and breakfast and checked in
front time to time. Had it not been for the incessant smoking, the sleeper car
would have been absolutely perfect.
Awesome pictures!
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