Saturday, February 22, 2014

Elephants, Tigers and Rafts

Waking Up

The previous day I signed up for an all day excursion, so the day would have an early start. The excursion was scheduled between 8am and 5pm. Pickup was anytime between 8-8:30am. I was up about 15 minutes prior to pickup time and was waiting in the lobby by 10 minutes past 8am. I was only in the lobby for about 5 minutes before the driver arrived.  The cost was 1,000 baht, around $3o, and all inclusive. I wasn't sure what to expect for that price, but I figured it was a small price to pay to ride an elephant and raft. 

Confusion

I boarded a minibus that held about 10-12 people. I took the front passenger seat, which would ordinarily be the drivers seat in the west. There were only a few people in the bus. Curious, I asked the driver how many would be on the tour - he confirmed there'd be 8. We made a few additional stops over the next 45 minutes. Sometime along the way he realized people in the bus had signed up for different tours. Some were expecting zip-lining, others were expecting to play with elephants. I was in the latter camp. I would have been up for zipping, but was cautious about my leg injury. Without clarifying what would be done we continued to drive 45 minutes - the trip total at this point is about 90 minutes. We stopped at a park and were told to swap busses. The people in the bus I'd be joining apparently already were given 30-45 minutes to walk around the park. I was asked if I wanted time to walk around and replied in the affirmative after confirming it was part of the tour. Much to the annoyance of others in the bus (including the driver), I got out and walked around the park. Shortly thereafter, a couple of others got out of the bus to walk around as well.

Butterfly Park

The park was called a butterfly park, but all I saw was uprooted flowers. I began the search for the butterflies. I was not impressed with the park and was hoping this was not an indication of what was to come.

During my search for butterflies I bumped into one of the guys who departed from the bus. His name was Adrian and he was the only other person on the bus who spoke English. He was from Malaysia. The rest were either Thai or Chinese.

I eventually found the butterfly coup. They were contained in an open pavilion.  I walked around quickly and probably saw 3 or 4. I couldn't tell if they flew away or simply didn't exist. In any case I quickly lost interest and made my way to the bus. As I left the pavilion I joined the Adrian and boarded the bus.




Getting to Camp

It was about another 30 minutes before we arrived at the primary destination, the Maetaman Elephant Camp. We departed the bus and the driver approached the camp staff. He returned telling us the park was busy and we'd start the day with rafting.



Rafting

We boarded the bus and drove to a different section of the park and departed by a river. There were a few shops along the river selling drinks and light refreshments. From the riverbank I could see people trekking through the river on elephants and others rafting down the river on bamboo rafts. The whole setup seemed entirely awesome. I was excited. This was a complete 180 after the Butterfly Park.

The driver played double duty as both the driver and host. He broke us up into groups, separating me and Adrian. I suggested he was breaking up the only English speakers and two girls already on the raft swiftly put me in my place. I took a seat at the back of the raft and the ride began. I chatted a bit with the two English speaking girls. They were a bit younger than me. They were both from Hong Kong, one spent considerable time in the US though and went to school at Stanford.

The entire rafting experience was surreal and worth the entire price of admission. It was a bit warm, but not uncomfortable. And the river wasn't filled with mosquitoes like I feared. The rafting trip was a blast.

Folks boarding the rafts

There are elephants in the river!!!

I'm an American...I can do anything!

View from the river...INCREDIBLE

Do you like my hat?

Local children playing in the river

Elephant Show

The Elephant Show was up next and I wasn't sure what to expect. The show comprised of half a dozen elephants or so ranging in size and age. The elephants were directed around by mahouts (elephant keeper). The animals willfully did everything from play soccer (by throwing the ball through a net) to paint a picture. At the end of the show the mahouts brought the elephants into the audience, who were watching under a pavilion.  If you tipped the mahout you could pose with the elephant. They didn't ask for money up front, but they were sure to grunt at you if you tried to stiff them. 20 baht, around 70 cents, is the lowest paper currency available here and appeared to be the right tip.




Soccer, or American Football

Elephant backrub

Elephant painting, with direction from a mahout
mahout (elephant tender) is hidden behind elephant 

Elephant Art

If you look closely you can see chains...this was a real bummer

An elephant ride like no other

Ox Cart Ride

Next up was an ox cart ride. This time around the driver paired up all us English speakers together, so it was me, Adrian, and the girls from Hong Kong. The ox cart ride was very uncomfortable and felt like a 100 year old wooden roller coaster.




Lunch

After the ox cart ride it was time for lunch. I'm glad we did lunch after the ox cart ride because I started the day a bit nauseous. The drive ride some people nauseous, but I woke up that way...so I can't blame the drive. The ox cart ride only made it worse and I wasn't sure what lunch would bring.

Lunch was actually pretty good. A selection of various foods and rice was available buffet style. I ate a number of tasty chicken wings and a few other bits.

Elephant Trekking

Next up was Elephant Trekking. We'd ride an elephant through the river and forrest. The elephant ride was much more smooth than the ox cart ride. The only negative about the elephant ride was the fact our driver hit the elephant with his little hook stick several times. Every time he did it I was sure to yell at him, but he still whacked the elephant a few times along the way. If I would have known this was part of the adventure I would have opted out.

Throughout the trek I was concerned I'd fall out of the little cart. We were restrained with a single horizontal bar. It was like riding a roller coaster without a seat belt and a single horizontal bar holding you in place. You felt like you could slide right off the bench.

All said and done this experience was quite enjoyable. It bothered me seeing some of the animals in chains. I suspect this was done only while they were in holding during the day, I wasn't sure though. Had I read about the Elephant Nature Park (ENP) earlier (a separate provider) I would have booked a trip there. That particular organization is more of a charity for distressed elephants. I don't think they let you ride them, but I would have been fine watching from afar and interacting without necessarily riding the animal. The ENP have an overnight experience, too, so if you ever decide to go to Thailand make sure to book your arrangements through ENP.



Tigers

The trip was supposed to end after the trip to the Elephant Camp, but some of the people in the vehicle convinced the driver to swing by the Tiger Kingdom. I guess that's how things work out here.

Shortly after leaving the camp we arrived at the Tiger Kingdom park. I'd read a bit about this place. The park denies sedating the animals, but many people think otherwise. The park claims the tigers are domesticated and bottle fed, so naturally they simply are not aggressive. After visiting the park I'm fairly convinced they are sedated. It's possible they use some form of diet to make the animals lethargic. In any case the animals appear drowsy and are not lively.

From the lobby of the open aired entryway you could see most of the larger animals. The pricing scheme was strange. The price one was charged was based on the animal one choose. The baby tiger was the most expensive. The largest and middle sized tiger were actually less expensive than the baby. They made no effort to sell you photographs, you simply took your own photos. The only upwell was an extra fee if a separate photographer was to enter the cage.

Adrian and I decided we'd visit with the large tigers, but the wait was almost an hour. We checked with our tour guide/driver and he said the wait was okay. After he checked with others, he asked if we'd simply visit with the medium tigers, as that queue was only 20 minutes. We agreed.

After paying we signed a waiver indicating we understood the risks and would hold the organization harmless from any harm caused by the lions. Yikes, what was I signing. Than we were directed to a separate entrance and made our way around the park. Outside each cage was a flat screen displaying a list of numbers. Each group was given a number, so the screen indicated how far off you were from visiting with your chosen tiger.

After a short wait we were escorted through a double metal gate. We were instructed not to touch any of the electric wires and to approach the tiger from behind. Tigers like to be pet on their belly. Even though there was a queue they were not rushing us along. They were actually very patient with us, and let us play with 3 different cats, as several lost interest and either fell asleep or laid down to relax. The guards had a hook like stick, but it was very clear the animals were in charge. Unlike the elephants, the tigers would not be poked or prodded.

At first I was pretty scared of the tiger and uneasy. The anxiety never really went away when I was around the tiger, but I did eventually start petting one of them. I was very respectful and followed the directions to a tee. I don't think I've ever listened to directions so carefully.

Getting ready for nothing

Lazy tiger

Adrian and the tiger...uneasy at first

Me and the tiger

Adrian and the tiger

The albino tiger is not for play

Night Bazaar 

After the tiger kingdom we were returned to our respective hotels. I was actually impressed with the tour and Adrian mentioned he was doing a different tour with the same provider the next day. He actually arrived to Chiang Mai earlier that day from Bangkok via bus. We exchanged Facebook contact info (the only way we could communicate since he didn't have cellular service) and made plans to meet up later that night.

I went back to the hotel, cleaned up a bit, and went to a coffee shop. I heard from Adrian about 45 minutes later. He told me more about the tour he was doing - it was a day trip to Chiang Rai, a neighboring city I planned on visiting for a couple of days. I had heard from the staff spending several days there was...a mistake. It was far too rural and there was much more to do were I was in Chiang Mai. A day trip would be perfect though. Chiang Rai was about 3 hours away so I wasn't sure...that was a lot of driving for one day. The tour had an extra that sealed the deal for me - it went to a place called the Golden Triangle. The Golden Triangle is the point where Thailand, Burma, and Laos meet. Decades ago it was a major worldwide opium trading route. After grabbing some street food at a Night Market we made our way to the tour company office. I checked the office closing time with the drive before returning to the hotel, so I knew the office was still open. En route we passed an international festival of sorts, complete with international food as well as singing and dancing. Before too long we found the office and I was confirmed.

Adrian hadn't seen the Night Bazaar and the Night Market was fairly weak, so we took a tuk-tuk about a mile to the Night Bazaar. Since it was a Saturday there was much more going on. There were a number of very talented artists painting. It was as if one of the permanent building's basement was their studio, where they both created and displayed art for sale.

We didn't stay out too late, largely because the day was exhausting and the next day's tour began at 7am.

Southern Asia Festival

Crowd around festival

Random artist at Night Bazaar

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