Hello China!

Arriving at PEK

The original arrival time to Beijing was scheduled to be around 4pm. With the delays we landed around 6-7pm. When I cleared customs it was closer to 8pm. As I walked downstairs I noticed the flight attendants holding the masses of people in economy back while they let the people in first and business class deplane first. I imagine this is important on an international flights since the customs and immigration lines can get long.

As I left the plane I noticed the outside air pollution and than a grand entryway. From what I've read, the Beijing airport has gone under refurbishment around the time of the olympics.  I did some fruitless searching of the United airport lounge but after about 10 minutes gave up and head for the city, more specifically the Hongdu Shijia Hotel, or as it was once called the Saga Youth Hostel.

PEK Airport - not bad!

An airport express train connects the airport to the Beijing subway system. When I applied for a visa I made arrangements at a hostel in Beijing off one of the subway lines.  There's an Airport Express bus and train, and I almost ended up on the bus. After a short while I found the train and was en route to the city. The train takes about 20 minutes to travel a little less than 20 miles. The airport express train was comfortable, although the seats were small for someone my size.  The subway trains were modern. Similar to the subway system in Germany, all the cars connect like a giant snake. As I waited for the subway I noticed a few British guys dressed in costume. It took me a second to remember it was halloween. 

Me on the Airport Express, the Beijing Subway

After about an hour on the Airport Express and Subway I finally reached the stop nearest the hostel. I passed through some hutongs (alleys) and watched in on the everyday life of people in Beijing. Although I was walking through the alleys at night, many dark, it didn't feel unsafe. Both bicycles and motorbikes would jet past me as I walked down the streets. The motorbikes were electric, so they were almost silent. It was a bit unnerving to have a silent electric bike pass from behind, but eventually I got used to it. For reasons I can’t quite explain, the street life felt distinctly different from what I’ve seen in the past. Eventually, with the help of Google maps, I found the hostel. Oh, t-Mobile, how I’ve come to rely on your free international data.

Arriving at the Saga Youth Hostel - Hongdu Shijia Hotel

As I entered the hostel from the hutong, I saw a  western girls dressed as a cat…I suspect and hope for halloween. Halloween didn't appear popular at all. I checked in to the hostel, requested a room change to a private single, and cleaned up. After cleaning up I talked to the girl at the front desk about tours. She recommended a Great Wall tour that departed early in the AM. There were 3 different 'Great Wall' tours to choose from, each went to a different segment of the wall. One required an hour drive, the other a 2 hour drive, and the last a 4 hour drive. The girl at the front desk recommended the 2 hour drive. Part of me wanted to take it easy the next day, but I figured starting strong was the way to go. Altogether the excursion, including breakfast and admission, was around $30 (USD).   The segment I would hike is called Mutianyu. More on the hike tomorrow. 

Hutongs by day

Exterior of what was the Saga Youth Hostel

Front Door

Single Room

After cleaning up from the long flight I went to the lobby/bar of the hostel-hotel (whatever it is). I was given a wood coin for a welcome beer, but since it was unique I’d keep it for a souvenir. The bar area really wasn’t much of a bar - just a counter were you could order something with a couple of chairs under the counter. There were plenty of vacant tables though. As I waited, I noticed one of the girls behind the counter (playing bartender) trying to take a selfy with me, the giant, in the background. She spoke English well enough so I asked if she wanted a real picture. She was very happy. 

While I was waiting in line a German college student started chatting with me. It’s worth noting he really was German. He invited me back to the table and we chatted for a bit about US and German domestic issues. I mentioned Berlin was a favorite city of mine and we chatted about the economic divide of the city. Apparently since the fall of the wall, that parts that were formerly communist still stagger in economic growth. They had a lot of questions about Obama, his popularity, and health care reform. We chatted for an hour or so when they resigned to bed. Towards the end of our conversation a Polish guy joined us (far back, left). He was alone, but traveling with his elderly grandfather. He offered up a full bottle of Vodka back at his room that he wanted to finish - but none of us wanted anything other than beer. I had a hard time believing the guy was Polish because his English was perfect and without any form of an accent. Like the Germans, he too was leaving the next day. Shortly after the Germans left the bar did a last call and I made my way back to the room for some sleep. 

Bar/Lobby/Restaurant

Friends

Goodbye Chicago!

Why China?

Having been to Thailand early this year I was craving a return visit to the great east. Cambodia is adjacent to the south end of Thailand, and Vietnam is next door to Thailand, so those two countries were high on the hit list. A co-worker often joked that a day didn't go by when Thailand slipped into our conversations. In my own defense, this particular co-worker has never been to Chiang Mai and is clueless to how awesome the place is.

One travel trick I often use when traveling great distances with a flexible timeline is to search a general region for the lease expensive nonstop airfare. Skyscanner is a great tool for this - with a departure airport and a loose date range you can quickly determine all the places you can go and for how much. A round trip ticket to Beijing would cost under $1k. And getting to my target destinations of Cambodia and Vietnam would be just a couple of hundred bucks In a nutshell, I'd hit the countries on my list, and get China for free. The only added stress with going to China involves obtaining a visa.  I had been to Hong Kong earlier in the year, but both Hong Kong and Macau  have different visa requirements than mainland China. If I cut my travel plans within China to under 72 hours a visa wouldn't actually be necessary - but I didn't want to chance it. China maintains a consulate in Chicago and obtaining a 12 month multi-entry visa would involve paying a fee and leaving my passport with the consulate for a couple of nights. Not a problem.

The visa process was unique. The visa requires either an invitation from a local or proof of lodging accommodations along with an airline ticket. For under $2 you can put down a deposit for a bed at a hostel, so lodging isn't a problem. I booked a two sets of accommodations spanning 7 month to confirm I'd receive a multi-entry visa valid for a year. Technically the visa is good for 15 months; a traveler can arrive 12 months after visa issuance and stay 90 days past expiry without issue. I had to make a couple of trips to the consulate. My first attempt involved having a handwritten form without my airline ticket. The embassy only involves typed applications and required evidence of air travel. I was hoping to defer air travel until I had a visa. Luckily there was no issue getting the visa and my passport was ready on the committed date by the consulate.

Aside from reading about a purported wall build thousands of years ago, I didn't know a lot about what to see in China. My friend I stayed with in Hong Kong had told me Shanghai had one of the most magnificent skylines he's ever seen. That's a pretty big compliment coming from someone who has spent significant time living in 3 continents (Europe, American, and Asia). So in addition to Beijing, Shanghai would be on my hit list.

Preparation

Gear

Being a gear-head, thinking through what I need to pickup for the trip is always exciting. I figured a quick recap of my travel essentials is an order. I've noticed a lot of people stumble upon these pages via Google search, hopefully this advice is practical. Note - no links below are intended to contain referral links. It's not my intention to financially benefit from any recommendations made below.

The Stuff

The Eagle Creek Switchback rolling backpack has been my luggage of choice. It's held up incredibly well. Traveling light is one of the best skills I've learned while traveling. With only these two bags I can get around very easy. Back when I was on an island in Thailand I easily got around on a scooter; the larger bag on my back, the daypack over my chest.  The packaging cubes are essentials as well. Compartmentalizing luggage not only makes you a more organized traveler, it cuts down on forgotten stuff and helps you identify essentials. I packed light on the t-shirts expecting to bring some back. I loved the inexpensive t-shirts I brought back from Thailand last time around.

Essentials
Folding Pack -  for pants, button ups
Packing Cubes - great for sox
Larger Cubes - great for undergarments
Liter Toiletry Bag - this bag is a must for everyone. It's a mesh bag that holds all your toiletries. It has a zipper top, handles liquids well, and is the correct TSA size for liquids. I love this bag.
Shoe Sac - this bag is meant for holding a second pair of shoes (the first pair is on your feet). But, I've realized it doubles nicely as a beach bag. It's large enough to hold a beach towel and sunscreen, kindle, etc. The bag is designed to be splash proof and resists sand to some extent. Love it.

No Longer Essential
Travel Toiletry Bag - This bag is well made and works well in bathrooms without much space for spreading out toiletries. It's roughly the same size as the Larger Cube bag mentioned above. Since I have to remove liquids (for international travel), I've realized I can travel without it. The Toiletry bag above is recommended. I suppose for short trips this bag could be useful, but I've learned to live lean with just the bag above.

SeV Scott-E-Vest Travel Pants - These pants were expensive. They're made of nylon and pretty comfortable - plus dry very quickly. Great for long flights. They also convert easily into shorts without looking too geeky. They're intended to conceal gadgets without looking bulky. The only real good feature about them is their front double-pockets (great protection against pick-pockets). Unfortunately they're complete "Made in China" crap. Within  couple of months they started to break apart. Worst yet, when I reached out to the company about the warranty I was brushed off. My opinion after talking with the idiots at SeV - the product is designed to fall apart. I did have a tailor sew them up, so I bought them along. Skip SeV altogether, it's crap.

Kuhl Liberator - I replaced the SeV pants with a pair of like pants from Kuhl (purchased at REI). Roughly the same price and they've held up much better. The Kuhl's are a better fit, too.

Eagle Creek Switchback Max 22

RAVPower 15000 - The USB rechargeable battery pack I took with for the past few trips worked really well. This time around I picked up a new battery pack that was a little bigger and would quick charge electronics faster. The RAVPower 15000 had perfect reviews on Amazon and was half the price of my other USB brick.

Canon 5d Mark III - I picked up a new Canon 5d Mark III camera. My original camera body stopped working. Canon claims it was corrosion. Maybe the weather seals were defective, but I can say for certain the camera was never immersed in water. Since I invested so much in Canon lenses I was kinda stuck. American Express backed me up thought. The extended warranty program that's part of my Blue Cash card cut me a check for the cost of the camera. I picked up a well rated Zonman dry bag for the camera on Amazon, but the bag didn't work for the camera like advertised.  If Thor exists, I hope he finds Zonman and has his way with him. 

Kirkland Beef Jerky - Costco sells 12 oz packages of the stuff for under 10 bucks and it's fantastic. Once opened it's only good for 3 days. However, with a  vacuum sealer, it's easy to make 3-4 individual servings. I picked up 3 bags but would only need about 2. I'd  hide about 6 individual serving in my larger bag and 2 in my daypack. This stuff is great for all day hikes - it takes up little space and is really packed with energy.

Kirkland Marino Wool Socks - For the price of less than one pair of Smart Wool ($11), you can get a 4 pack of the Costco equivalent. These things are the best for traveling and go days without odor problems. 

Bye Bye Beard

Before heading out to Asia, it's time for a shave. I was doing a simple vacation with my family in the Dominican and stopped shaving throughout the trip. Since I was switching jobs I didn't see the need to shave when I returned. I started to feel ridiculous though, especially since I'm not a bearded man. So off to the barber I went for a shave and haircut.

Bye bye beard!

Getting to the Airport

After getting stuff ready and packing I didn't get much sleep much the night before. My flight wasn’t until 1pm, but the target was to be at the airport at 11am. Checking in online wasn’t possible because the airline needed to verify I had a Chinese visa. I had originally planned to spend the night prior to flight at my mom's - but that didn't happen because I had so much to do. So she offered to come to the city in the morning. We'd have a breakfast and she'd take me to the airport.

My mom got to the city right around 10am. She put together a care package for the flight consisting of fresh fruit, beef jerky, gummy peaches (my favorite), pretzel chips, granola bars, and box of slim jims. I appreciated the gesture but was kinda annoyed. I didn’t want to look ungrateful but I also didn’t want to weighed down with another bag.  Packing light is key for the way I travel. She insisted it would be great for the 12 ½ hour non-stop flight to Beijing. She said I should just toss what I didn’t want when I got to China. I grimaced and took the bag. It was far more food than I could eat on the plane.  Foreshadowing a bit, she couldn’t have been more correct. My mom is the best!

Mom & Me

United Lounge at O'Hare (ORD)

Since I didn't have luggage to check and am part of the TSA Pre program, checking in and clearing security was easy. Although I checked in online the day prior, United still required me to get a boarding pass at the airport. I suspect this was so an agent could confirm I had a visa for China. Like Hong Kong, Beijing allows for 72 hour visa-free transit through Beijing, So I'm not sure why they were checking for a visa. 

When I checked in online the day prior, United offered a business class upgrade for the leg to Beijing for a pretty hefty discount. Business class meant traveling in the upper deck of a 747, so after some back and forth I opted for the upgrade. The upgrade allowed for access to the lounge adjacent to the terminal. I suspect this was one of many lounges United has at O'hare - but I hope the other lounges offer more than this one. The lounge had nicer seating than the general terminals, but aside from the seating the lounge offered very little. The water available in a large pitcher was dirty - and bottled water was offered. The lights snacks offered were far from impressive. If I paid a daily rate for this lounge I would have felt like a sucker, especially thinking back to the Prime Class lounge at Istanbul airport. The flight was delayed about 2 hours, so the comfortable seating and extra space was a nice value add.  The fact the lounge was directly adjacent to the gate was a huge plus. I could actually see the crew swapping out our aircraft, a huge 747-400, for another. 

Swapping out our 747 for another

Lounge

The 12 Hour Flight

Beijing!

She finally arrived!

After about 2 hours of waiting in the comfy lounge boarding finally began. I left the comfy lounge and boarded the plane. Having spent the past 2 hours in the comfy lounge, I was almost oblivious to the 200 people waiting near the gate.

Upon entering the plane I made my way to upper deck. There were only a couple of dozen seats up top. The configuration of the seats are such that groups of seats are separated by partitions. My seat would actually face the rear of the plane. The flight offered WiFi for most of the flight, at least outside the poles and Chinese airspace. 

Time to board - I'm (group) #1

Lay flat seats throughout the upper deck

Living First Class

There's not much to say about the flight. The upper deck had a couple of flight attendants for the couple of dozen people up top and did a great job taking care of everyone. The food was really good, as was the ice cream. Even though the seat folded down I wasn't able to sleep well.  The seat is designed to fold into and under the TV - and if you're tall there's only a tiny cut-out for your feat. So, unless you curl into a fetal position, it kinda feels like you're in a coffin. I had plenty of entertainment though for the flight. Plus, with internet it's pretty easy to stay entertained. The flight wasn't short, but it's wasn't painfully long either.  Maybe it's because of the 17 hour nonstop flight to Hong Kong I took earlier in the year.